Recommendations for High Season:
Rome
Never show up to any of Rome's major tourist attractions (Colosseum, Roman Ruins, etc.) without a ticket. Just don't. It's way too hot (like 100F) and the line will be horrendous.
Use the public water drinking sprouts.
Ladies! St. Peter's Basilica does not play when it comes to modesty. If you show up with short shorts, a short skirt or a top that doesn't cover your chest/shoulders you will be turned away and told to buy a cover-up. Pick your outfit accordingly.
Rent an electric bike to cruise the Appian Way (aka Via Appia Antica). The Appian Way is Rome's oldest road. You can take Bus 118 from most of Rome's central tourist sites to Punto Informativo Appia Antica, where you can rent bikes. Lots of very interesting sites along the way including the catacombs.
If you're really in vacation mode, visit the spa at the Crowne Plaza St. Peter's Basilica in Rome. Forty-five (45) euros gets you an all-day pass to an indoor pool, traditional sauna, turkish steam room, massage showers, fitness equipment, etc.
Florence
Book ahead at least a week to get tickets to Uffizi Gallery and the Academy Gallery.
If you care to splurge, 100 euros gets you access to the Four Seasons Hotel Firenze spa in Florence. It was nice, don't get me wrong, but I thought the Crowne Plaza in Rome was a better value.
Uber / Lyft do not exist in Florence as of August 2017. This made for a panicked morning before our flight to Sardinia. The phone number at the taxi stand also did not work. Figure out your transportation well ahead of time. The trains and buses work well. Use them.
Where to Eat: Trattoria Acquacotta, Il Vezzo, Mattacena
Cinque Terre
Cinque Terre is super touristy, but worth a day. The towns are picturesque and Monterosso has a beach, but it's overrun by people on guided tours and photo nerds looking to recreate Manarola's famous postcard shot.
As such, don't bother booking a guided tour. You can take a TrenItalia train from Florence to La Spezia, then either walk or take regional trains to travel between the five towns: Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza and Monterosso.
Spend 20 euros and get a full body massage from the Chinese ladies who walk up and down the beach in Monterosso. I was not aware prior to traveling to Italy, but immigrants, mostly from South and East Asia, hold up the country's tourism industry (especially the informal sectors). Might as well support them and get the cheapest (and probably best) massage available in Italy at the same time.
Where to Eat: Lapo's, gelato at Gelateria Vernazza (best gelato I had in Italy - try the Apricot Cinnamon or Stracciatella)
La Maddalena, Sardinia
If you're looking to vacation where the Italians vacation I would suggest La Maddalena. I think I heard English one or two times while there.
How to get there: Fly to Olbia Costa Smeralda Airport, then take the TurmoTravel bus (3.50 euros one-way) headed to Santa Teresa di Gallura. Get off at Palau (stop before Santa Teresa) and then take the Delcomar ferry to La Maddalena. Quicker, but more expensive is taking a private car from the airport to Palau instead of the bus (it is $70-75 euros one-way). The TurmoTravel bus schedule is optimist. It says it takes 1-hour to get from Olbia to Palau, it really takes at least two. Plan accordingly. Meridiana and Mistral Air fly frequently to Olbia and for pretty affordable rates.
Skip the countless boat tours that line the port. Rent an electric bike instead from Nicol Sport and bike to the beaches of Isola Maddalena and Isola Caprera. Don't bother eating lunch in town either. Grab fruit and bread from Le Delizie Sarde and cheese from La Casa de Formaggio and head out for the day. Beaches to visit: Bassa Trinita and Cala Coticcio (bring water and good shoes for the 45-minute hike).
Make reservations for dinner at least one day before if not more. Italians vacation in La Maddalena and they like to eat out and eat late.
Where to Eat: Ristorante Magreta, Pasticceria Ottimo Dolce e Salato, Dolce Distrazioni, Osteria de Lio, L'Alternative Steak House
All photos shot in August 2017.
Photos of me taken by Ana María Reichenbach (Thank you!)
Sometime ago I realized that being a photographer meant that I would have photographs of everything and everyone but myself. I've made a sincere attempt over the past few years to make sure I get photos of myself somehow someway. Even if that means arguing with someone about aperture in the street :)
